Rosalie Cheese in Silkwinds Magazine

26 August 2017

SAY CHEESE! How two artisans are introducing cheese to plates and palates across Indonesia

Working with cheese is an unusual practice in Indonesia.The archipelago doesn’t have an indigenous cheesemaking tradition, so what’s available is imported at inflated prices and consumed in processed forms. But that’s all set to change,thanks to a new generation of local artisans. Born and raised in Jakarta,Ayu Linggih recently returned to her ancestral home of Bali to grow her business. Ayu started Rosalie Cheese back in 2012, when she was studying food science in Australia.

“My dad loves cheese, and he noticed there weren’t many people in Indonesia making artisan alones,” she recalls. Five years on, Ayu’s range of European-style cheeses – which include mozzarella and chèvre, as well as a cow’s cheese matured in coconut ash – are available in Jakarta, Yogyakarta and Bali. Rosalie Cheese isn’t the only such enterprise on the island. Growing up in the Philippines, Maria Fe Jabay would often helpher grandmother prepare kesongbuti, a soft white cheese made from water buffalo milk. Today,she makes cheese for a living inBali, working with the Wanaprasta farming cooperative to produce cheese from goat’s milk. While her repertoire includes European-style cheeses, more unusual are the durian-infused creations like Kerung Dur, a hardgoat’s cheese that’s been aged indurian rind for a full year. Boastinga full, tangy flavour interspersed with flashes of sweetness, it’s greatfor elevating salads. “It’s been a slow process,” says Maria, who has been honing hercraft since 2013. But she has foundsuccess with her creations, which showcase a distinctive flavour profile unique to the region. Her grandmother would be proud.

Words by Theodora Sutcliffe

Photo by Tommy Schultz

Sillkwinds Magazine May 2017