SAY CHEESE! How two artisans are introducing cheese to plates and palates across Indonesia
“My dad loves cheese, and he noticed there weren’t many people in Indonesia making artisan alones,” she recalls. Five years on, Ayu’s range of European-style cheeses – which include mozzarella and chèvre, as well as a cow’s cheese matured in coconut ash – are available in Jakarta, Yogyakarta and Bali. Rosalie Cheese isn’t the only such enterprise on the island. Growing up in the Philippines, Maria Fe Jabay would often helpher grandmother prepare kesongbuti, a soft white cheese made from water buffalo milk. Today,she makes cheese for a living inBali, working with the Wanaprasta farming cooperative to produce cheese from goat’s milk. While her repertoire includes European-style cheeses, more unusual are the durian-infused creations like Kerung Dur, a hardgoat’s cheese that’s been aged indurian rind for a full year. Boastinga full, tangy flavour interspersed with flashes of sweetness, it’s greatfor elevating salads. “It’s been a slow process,” says Maria, who has been honing hercraft since 2013. But she has foundsuccess with her creations, which showcase a distinctive flavour profile unique to the region. Her grandmother would be proud.
Words by Theodora Sutcliffe
Photo by Tommy Schultz
Sillkwinds Magazine May 2017